Sake, Soju and Shochu at Generator Bowen
Sake 101
History
Sake, Japan’s traditional rice wine, has been brewed for over a thousand years. The earliest records date back to the Nara period (710–794 AD), but it likely originated much earlier. Initially, sake was a sacred drink used in Shinto rituals and offered to the gods. Over time, brewing techniques evolved, particularly during the Edo period (1603–1868), when filtration and pasteurization were refined.
How sake is made
Sake production follows a brewing process somewhat similar to beer, as starch in rice must be converted to fermentable sugars before fermentation:
Rice Polishing – The outer layers of the rice grain (bran and proteins) are milled away. The degree of polishing influences the sake's style.
Washing, Soaking & Steaming – The polished rice is washed, soaked, and then steamed to make it suitable for fermentation.
Koji Making – A special mold called Aspergillus oryzae is sprinkled onto the steamed rice, breaking down starches into fermentable sugars.
Fermentation – Yeast is added to the mix (moromi), and fermentation occurs over weeks in temperature-controlled conditions.
Pressing & Filtration – The sake is pressed to separate liquid from rice solids, then sometimes filtered.
Pasteurization & Aging – Most sakes are pasteurized to stabilize them, though some styles remain unpasteurized (nama sake). Some are aged briefly before release.
Styles
Sake is categorized primarily by its rice polishing ratio and whether additional alcohol is added:
Junmai – Pure rice sake with no added alcohol. It tends to have a rich and umami-forward flavor.
Honjozo – A small amount of distilled alcohol is added to enhance aroma and smoothness.
Ginjo – The rice is polished to at least 60% of its original size, resulting in a more refined and fruity sake.
Daiginjo – A super-premium sake with at least 50% polishing, often floral, light, and elegant.
Nama (Unpasteurized) – A fresh, vibrant style with lively flavors, requiring refrigeration.
Nigori (Unfiltered) – A cloudy sake with rice sediments, giving it a creamy texture.
Koshu (Aged Sake) – Rarely aged for years, developing complex flavors akin to sherry.
Sparkling Sake – Carbonated and often slightly sweet, similar to sparkling wine.
Main rice types and the flavour profile they produce
Yamada Nishiki - Ginjo, Daiginjo, elegant, fruity, silky
Gohyakumangoku - Junmai, Junmai Ginjo, light, dry, clean
Miyama Nishiki - Junmai, Junmai Ginjo, crisp, fresh, slightly sharp
The Lineup
Ozeki Karatamba Junmai
Ozeki’s original Japanese brewery was founded in 1711 by Ozakaya Chobei in Nada district of Hyogo prefecture. Over the years, Ozeki has become one of the world’s major sake brewers.
Nada's "Miyamizu":
The Nada region is known for its unique geological features that produce a special brewing water called "Miyamizu," which is abundant in minerals and has an optimal balance of components, including low iron content, which stimulates yeast fermentation
In 1979, Ozeki became the first Japanese producer to establish a presence in the USA.
Polish Rate - 70%
ABV - 14.5%
Konishi Shuzo Hiyashibori (cold pressed) Ginjo Sake
Founded in 1550, Konishi Shuzo has the honour of being the oldest sake brewery owned and managed by the same family, the Konishi family. It is based in the Hyogo Prefecture which is renowned for being one of the most important sake producing regions in Japan.
The brewery uses soft, river-bed water fed from the Rokko & Nagao mountains and has forged close relationships with a number of agricultural co-operatives to ensure a reliable supply of quality rice.
Polish Rate - 60%
Hakkaisan Daiginjo
Hakkaisan Brewery Co was founded in 1922 by Koichi Nagumo in Minamiuonuma City, Niigata. It is known for its "tanrei karakuchi" style sake, using snowmelt water from Mount Hakkaisan.
For this Daiginjo, Yamada Nishiki and Gohyakumangoku sake rice are carefully selected and polished down to 45%. All of the koji is handmade and the sake is brewed with pure snowmelt mountain stream water, known as Raiden-sama no Mizu or water of the god Raiden. A touch of alcohol is added to enhance the sake’s aromatic expression.
Kawatsuru Shuzo Sanuki Cloudy Sake (Nigori)
The Kawatsuru brewery was founded in 1891 and the name means “river crane”.
Kawatsuru is known for producing rich, umami-driven sake with a good balance of acidity and depth.
Soft water influence – The brewery uses natural water from the local Saita River, which gives the sake a smooth texture.
Rice varieties used include Yamada Nishiki, Omachi, and Oseto, a local rice variety from Kagawa Prefecture.
Nigori sake - In regular sake production, a fine mesh filter separates the liquid from the rice solids. However, for nigori, a coarser filtration is used, allowing some rice sediment and lees (or sake kasu) to remain in the sake.
Soju
What is Soju?
Soju is a Korean distilled spirit that is typically clear, slightly sweet and lower in alcohol than most distilled liquors. It usually has an alcohol content of 12–25% and is one of the most widely consumed spirits in the world, especially in South Korea.
How is Soju made?
Traditionally, soju was made from rice, wheat, or barley. However, during the Korean War (1950s), rice shortages led to the use of sweet potatoes, tapioca or grains instead. Many modern mass-produced sojus still use these alternative starches.
Fermentation
The base starch (rice, barley, or sweet potato) is steamed and mixed with nuruk (a fermentation starter made of yeast and mold). This converts the starches into fermentable sugars, producing a low-alcohol mash.
Distillation
Traditional soju is pot-distilled to concentrate alcohol, resulting in rich and complex flavours.
Mass-produced soju is often diluted soju, where high-proof ethanol (usually made from sweet potatoes or grains) is mixed with water, sweeteners, and flavouring agents for a smoother, lighter taste.
Some soju is infused with flavours (peach, apple, grape, yogurt, etc.) before bottling.
Types of Soju
Traditional (Distilled) Soju – More complex, craft-style, higher ABV (~40%), made from rice or barley (e.g., Andong Soju).
Diluted (Modern) Soju – Lighter, smoother, and sweeter, with added sugar or aspartame (e.g. Jinro Chamisul, Chum Churum).
Flavored Soju – Fruit-flavoured varieties that are lower in alcohol (~12–14%), popular among casual drinkers.
Jinro is Back Soju
Jinro is Back is a reinterpretation of soju sold between 1975 and 1983 made by HiteJinro.
The retro blue bottle is especially popular with consumers and has led to the creation of a range of new products, including Jinro is Back branded clothing. Jinro soju was first introduced in 1924.
Distillation: Continuous distillation rather than pot stills. It’s a very industrial, clean style of distilling.
Dilution: After distillation, the spirit is diluted heavily with pure water to bring it down to drinking strength.
Flavoring and Sweetening: After dilution, a little sweetener (usually sugar derivatives) and flavour enhancers to give it that super smooth, slightly sweeter style.
Filtration: The final step is charcoal filtration, which softens the spirit even more.
16.9%
Shochu
Shochu is a Japanese distilled spirit with an alcohol content of 25–30%, typically stronger than sake but weaker than whiskey or vodka. It is mainly produced in Kyushu and the Ryukyu Islands. Unlike sake (which is brewed), shochu is distilled, making it more similar to whiskey or soju.
Base Ingredients - Shochu can be made from a variety of ingredients, including:
Barley – Light, nutty, and slightly sweet.
Sweet Potato – Rich, earthy, and full-bodied.
Rice – Soft, smooth, and mildly sweet.
Buckwheat – Light with a subtle nutty aroma.
Brown Sugar – Sweet, slightly caramel-like (only in Amami Islands).
Koji Mould & Fermentation
Koji mould is added to the main ingredient to convert starches into fermentable sugars. The mixture is then fermented for several days to produce a low-alcohol mash. Different types of koji influence flavour:
White Koji – Clean, mild flavors.
Black Koji – Rich, intense umami.
Yellow Koji – Fruity, delicate (more common in sake).
Most shochu is single-distilled, preserving complex flavours. Some mass-produced varieties use continuous distillation, creating a neutral, vodka-like spirit.
Aging & Bottling - Shochu is typically aged in ceramic pots, stainless steel tanks, or wooden barrels.
Some types (like barley shochu) may be aged in oak barrels, giving them a whiskey-like character.
Satsuma Shuzo Kan No Ko Oak Barrel Aged Barley Shochu
Founded: 1936
Satsuma Shuzo is a renowned shochu distillery based in Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan - a region famous for producing sweet potato (imo) shochu. The distillery has a long history of craftsmanship and is known for making rich, full-bodied imo shochu that reflects the terroir of Kagoshima.
Distillation is using pot stills made of stainless steel with a single distillation run.
Type: Mugi shochu (barley shochu)
Ageing is in American oak.
